Gestation in sheep is between 142-152 days, with the average being 147 days. Pretty boy Sven was introduced to his lady friends Lily and Ruby on 27 September 2016, which would make this coming Saturday the earliest they could lamb. Assuming a whole lot of things, that is!
In expectation of the blessed events, I set up a “maternity pen” for the two ladies next to their current pasture area. This is for everyone’s safety, especially the lambs, because our two livestock guardian dogs (LGDs) have not experienced lambing before. With the excitement of lambing, I want the LGDs to have a good experience and learn that the lambs belong to the mama sheep, not to them. Hence the separate, but right-next-door pen. Everyone can see and smell, but not interfere.
Now there is a non-zero chance that one or both of them aren’t even pregnant. Both ewes have lambed before, and Sven is a daddy, so that’s something in my favor. I’m quite pleased to not have to go through “first lambing” with them!
So now we wait, I hope not too long, but as with all things farm-y, it is what it is.
Due to some health issues, it has become necessary for us to eliminate just about all bread from our regular eating, which means some adjustments in food preparation.
I had just gotten my chicken nugget recipe to where I liked it (mostly), and breading was definitely a part of that. Now to revamp it to not have breading, which wasn’t going to work with shredding the chicken in the food processor.
Internet to the rescue! I started with this recipe, leaving out the wheat flour. After forming a few nuggets, that wasn’t going to work – the mixture was just too dry. Let’s toss in a few eggs and see if that works as a binder (it does every other time). It does work – huzzah!
The secret was using the meat grinder attachment on the Kitchenaid. That ground the chicken into small enough pieces (not quite a paste, but more like the ham in ham salad) that the egg would hold everything together.
And now we have nekkid nuggets – no breading, no problem.
This has been a challenging year, animal-wise. The weather was cool and wet, then hot and dry, then wet again, which puts stress on the grass and the animals. Unfortunately, we’ve lost several due to that stress, including 2 of the Corriedale sheep (one being the ram). As much as I love the Corries, they just aren’t turning out to be the right breed for our farm, for various reasons. One of the other breeds I had looked at were Shetland sheep, a smaller and hardier breed from the Shetland Islands, Scotland.
Did some searching to find breeders in my area, and was surprised to find at least 4 within a reasonable driving distance. Made an appointment at the closest one, and now have a new fiber friend and 3 Shetland sheep!
One of the reasons I was wanting to have Corriedales is that they come in colors – the most common one around here is the cream, but there are also shades of brown and black. I discovered that the Shetlands come in those colors as well – white, and 10 registered shades of brown and black. Plus the lambs can be any of those colors and not necessarily the colors of the parents. The rams are typically horned, but they are curved horns – the pointy end is not toward the human! The ewes are usually polled (no horns).
I’m keeping the 2 Corriedales (Vicky and Sydney), and have found that Shetland/Corriedale crosses are not a bad thing, wool-wise. Hopefully next spring we will have some examples to show!
I was asked a very interesting question yesterday – which is the slowest season on the farm? It took me a few seconds to think about it, and the answer is, there really isn’t a “slow” season, at least on our farm. Because we raise animals, every season is focused on their care and well-being.
Right now (fall), we are making sure things are ready for winter – hay in the barn, waterers ready to go, moving manure out of buildings, as well as putting up the garden items and machinery. Beef sides will be ready for processing in December, so there is the paperwork side of things to maintain.
Winter – keep the animals fed and watered, watch for new calves, work on outdoor projects as weather allows, mostly focus on indoor projects (indoor veg growing, household maintenance, etc), check the beehives every week or so and add food patties as needed. I’m hoping to experiment with dyeing my hand-spun yarn, and will spend more time in the pottery studio.
Spring – watch the ground to see when the grass starts growing and we can stop feeding hay, plan and plant the garden, shear the sheep, plant the new hay field, make the list of things that need fixed/maintained this year, order meat chickens.
Summer – watch the weather and watch the grass grow, mow and bale hay, get the hay into the barn for winter, work on all those projects (they never end – finish one, find two more that need done), tend the garden, harvest honey as needed, process the meat chickens, mow the few areas that need it (mostly clearing paths – the sheep and goats do the majority of the mowing around here!)
This is by no means a complete list – some things happen every season, like moving the sheep and goats around the farm for them to eat the grass and brush, or putting up/repairing fences (now that is a never-ending job…), checking the beehives, tending the animals, etc. Add in the daily household tasks (cooking, dishes, laundry, sweeping, etc.), and the hours fill up quickly.
Is it easy? No. Do we always *want* to go out in the heat/cold/rain/snow and do the job? No. I’m pretty sure just about everything on a farm is heavy or difficult, but it’s always interesting, and it always is engaging (physically, mentally, or both!).
I don’t know who originally said it, but the quote “Build a life you don’t need a vacation from” fits. I don’t think I could enjoy a “vacation” away from the farm – I’d be thinking about how everything is going. Did the old cow die, do the sheep have enough grass, on and on.
I wasn’t sure that this day would actually arrive – new technology, lots of things that could go wrong between putting on the Flow honey super and it being filled. But it happened today – I harvested a whole bunch of honey without carrying frames, upsetting the bees, or getting stung.
Like with everything to do with bees, I suited up, got the smoker going, and took things slowly. No sense in making silly mistakes (which I’ve done before and will do again) and losing honey.
First order of business was to check the side viewing window to see if the cells there were capped – they were not, so I was pretty certain that my maximum harvest would be from the 5 central frames and not the 2 ends.
I pulled each frame out to inspect it – if the honey cells are not capped with wax, they are not ready to harvest. If too many uncapped cells are drained, the honey is too “wet” and can ferment over time.
The 5 inner frames were all capped and heavy – it still surprised me how much honey weighs!
I had read through the instructions and watched several videos from the Flow hive people about how to harvest. Easy enough to do and everything worked as advertised. After reading about how some Flow beekeepers had cut lengths of flexible tubing to run all the honey into a covered bucket, I decided to go that route. It was much easier to cut a few holes in a bucket lid and let the honey drain directly into the honey bucket than to carry glass jars to the apiary and have to worry about 1) having enough jars for the task, and 2) dealing with curious bees trying to rob the honey from the open jars.
Now to insert the long metal “key”, crack the cells, and hope this thing worked.
After the frames were empty, I replaced the caps and reset the Flow frame. I had barely gotten the next frames ready to drain, and the bees were already cleaning the dribbles of honey from the first frames in preparation to rewax the cells and make more honey.
A picture of the whole setup, with a cow photobomb – 2 deep brood supers (painted white) with the varnished Flow honey super on top. No honey will be taken from the brood supers so they have food to eat over the winter (I will supplement with winter “candy” patties to make sure they have the best chance of surviving to the spring).
And there you have it. It took much longer than I was expecting for my bees to start filling the Flow honey frames, but once they did, they filled them quickly. There is still a lot of summer left, and the fall flowers will be blooming as well. Maybe I’ll get another harvest out of the Flow.
Our part of the world has been dealing with some serious heat recently, which, as animal farmers, is worrisome. All of our animals have free access to shade all day, every day. Most of the time, they actually take advantage of that shade – the cows and horses will be in the barn until mid-afternoon, the chickens stay in their coop or hunker down under a piece of equipment, the sheep and goats go in their hoop hut or under a tree.
With the heat index in the 90s or over 100 degrees F (Friday was 110F according to my weather app, and it’s projected to be around 107F today), it’s even more important for us to keep an eye on all of our critters, so I will make the rounds every few hours to make sure no one is in distress and that all the water buckets are filled up.
The cows and horses are the easiest, since they have access to fresh running water. For everyone else, it’s a matter of moving a hose around to fill up buckets or waterers. We do this in stages – water to the sheep and goats, take a break; water to the egg chickens and pigs, take a break, etc, etc. We can’t take care of them unless we’re also making sure to be hydrated and alert.
As far as farm work goes, it gets done before 9 or 10am, or after 7pm. Being prone to overheat anyway, I’m not interested in being taken to the emergency room due to heat exhaustion. The rest of the time, I do like the animals – stay in a cool place and keep hydrated.
Thankfully, this type of weather doesn’t happen very often, but when it does, it takes an extra level of watchfulness of the animals and of us.
As you can see, much has changed since my last Flow hive update – for the better!
Some people with Flow hives have reported that the bees are not capping all the cells on their frames all at once. I will need to open things up and pull out the Flow frames to make sure that all the honey cells are capped before I harvest – if too many cells are still being filled, the honey will have too high of a water content and ferment. I do want to try my hand at making mead, but on my own time, with properly “dry” honey!
Unfortunately, it’s going to be a spell of hot and humid days around here, so that will have to be an early morning hive check. I have no desire to overheat in that bee suit. But once the frames have been checked, if any are 90% or more capped, I can harvest just that frame and leave the rest of the frames alone. I find that fantastic.
The outer frames appear to be works in progress, as seen from the observation window.
I have a traditional 10-frame medium honey super on the other hives, and am keeping an eye on that as well. The frames just have foundation on them, so those bees need to draw out the comb before they can start making honey.
With regular hive maintenance and honey harvesting, there is beeswax as one of the “by-products”. Bees build comb where they shouldn’t (called “burr comb” or “brace comb”) that needs to be scraped off for me to be able to get the frames out. Honey can only be extracted when the wax caps over the honey are removed.
What to do with all this? Melt it down, strain out the impurities, and make something! In this case – votive candles. They will need to set up over a day or so (I will wait a few days to be certain that the centers are solid), then can be removed from the mold and trimmed.